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Hi guys. First post, hope you can help. As above Honda fourtrax. Used primarily to put my ski boat in the garage put 2" ball on front. Any way, had just backed boat into garage, turned off to crank trailer wheel down, when I went to restart got nothing. No neutral light, no headlights, no reverse light, would not turn over when start button pushed. It would crank and run when I jumped the contacts on the start relay.
While running the neutral light will come on, although it is dim and flickers. Reverse light on when running and in reverse. Used jumper cable to ground battery - terminal to engine block thinking ground wire from battery to engine may be bad. No neutral light, no start. Applied 12 volts to start relay. Got a loud click like it was making contact.
Disconnected neutral switch wire. Grounded neutral switch wire with jumper wire. No neutral light, no electric start. At this point I am thinking ignition switch vs broken wire in the harness going to the neutral switch due to dimness and flickering when running. You may be right on a bad ignition. Double check the the ground cable black where it bolts up to the frame from the wire coming off the battery. Wiggle the key also while this is going on to see if it starts. Thanks for the response.
After spending some time studying the wiring diagram, I realized that I had missed one of the first things I should have checked. The pair of fuses coming of from the battery.
I used a jumper wire from the battery side of the fuse to the broken wire and the neutral light came on and it fired right up. I would order the newer style and splice it right in.You can troubleshoot an Ecotec brand ignition coil yourself to save money and possible diagnose a staring problem.
Ecotec ignition coils are found in many American automobiles and are responsible for increasing the voltage provided by the car's battery to a level capable of igniting fuel combustion in the engine.
Inside the coil casing are a primary and a secondary coil of wire. Each must be tested for proper resistance to be sure it supplies the correct voltage. Turn on the digital multimeter.
Make sure the measurement dial points to the capital Greek letter omega which represents ohms. The ohm is the unit of resistance. Connect the positive red wire of the multimeter to the outer, positive terminal of the ignition coil. Touch the negative black wire of the multimeter to the outer, negative terminal of the ignition coil.
The resistance reading on the screen is for the primary coil. If the reading is not between 0. Touch the black wire of the multimeter to the center, negative terminal of the ignition coil. The resistance reading on the screen is for the secondary coil. If the reading is not between 10, to 11, ohms replace the ignition coil. This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.
To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Works, contact us. Step 1 Turn on the digital multimeter. Step 2 Connect the positive red wire of the multimeter to the outer, positive terminal of the ignition coil. Items you will need Digital multimeter. References Georgia State University: Resistance. About the Author This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.
My atv broke down 4 months ago and I cranked it every other week and had no problem. Now I got every thing put back together and tried to start it and now I am not getting any fire to the spark plug. Anyone have any ideas? This might seem silly, but seemingly big problems are sometimes caused by the simplest thing.
Disconnect the main electrical connector coming out of the engine, and then check for spark again. This unhooks the kill switch, ATV ignition switch and wiring for those switches. If the spark improves, the problem is within wiring from one of those switches or a switch itself is to blame. Think of your friends and riding partners who have the same or similar quad, you might be able to borrow parts from their machines to diagnose the problem. I disconnected the electrical connector and still no spark.
Is there a way to test the ignition coil? Ignition coils. Measure the resistance between the primary low-tension wire and ground or ground terminal.
Is The Ohms Reading On My Ignition Coil Ok How Do I Test Completely
It should be very low. The primary wire is the small wire going to the CDI box or points. Next measure the secondary high-tension wire and ground. Note that on most bikes these days, the coil mounting bar, that passes through the coil and mounts it to the frame, is the ground for the coil primary and secondary wires. This should be quite high, like to ohms. If the coil is out side the specs given in the shop manual the coil might be bad.
Sometimes, a coil will work OK when cool but fail when it warms up. Let them cool and they work again. Also check your battery itself Exactly what kind of machine is this?
Someone may be able to get you more specific testing specs if we know exactly what you have. You need a digital multimeter to check resistance on the stator, you need the same thing to test the coil and all the other tests that Pete suggested.
Also, double check all your wiring for loose or corroded connections. What year and model is this atv? I'm assuming it's a Honda something, sinced you posted it in the Honda forum. You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.
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This is for everyone trying to figure out there electrical problems, like no lights, or no spark. Beerock gave the measurement points for the coil primary side and secondary side.
All other measurements should be to a solid chassis ground, like an engine mount bolt, or a bare spot on the frame. Originally posted by doberR beerock is bustin out the good threads tonight!!!
Originally posted by wilkinr Beerock gave the measurement points for the coil primary side and secondary side.
Originally posted by Pappy id like to see you do a thread to teach folks how to properly use a multimeter!
Honda Fourtrax TRX300 Service Manual
I can do two, I suppose. A thread and a tech article. I'll get on it. I could have saved myself time money and trouble had i known what beercock just posted. However does anyone know the specs for a cdi box??? You can't test the CDI box with an ordinary multimeter. The function of a CDI box changes with varying input voltage, timing, and frequency. You can't reproduce those signals with an ordinary multimeter.
The method for testing a CDI is rather simple. Test everything else, if they all check out OK, then by process of elimination, the problem must be the CDI. I have replaced my stator and pulse coil. I have tried a brand new ignition box. I cant see any broken wires or shortsbut i am only using a test l;ight. So my next step is to use a multimeter and check for opens. I already bought a soldering kit to repair the already mangled wiring harnessbut i would rather buy a new harness altogether.
Does anyone know where to get cheap harnesses or even the plugs to make a new harness? If anyone sees can think of something i am overlooking let me knowbut there arent really any other components outside the wiring.
When my r first quit running the first thing i bought was a new cdi box. It did the exact same thing as the other one still no power to the coil. Now with every other possible item being brand newI went and got the exact same box back from the cycle shop. Now before even installing this, I am noticing some differances.
The number on the actual plug is HA8 and underneath that number it has a CI The old one has HB9 and underneath it has CF The box the new one came in has a part on it.Here we troubleshoot the Honda Fourtrax engine and repair it. We also explain how I used multimeter to aid in the troubleshooting process. The first thing I try to do on a simple motor like on the Honda Fourtrax is to break it down to either an electrical issue or a fuel issue. The easiest way that I have found to do this is to remove the spark plug and then try and start the engine.
Now hold the sparkplug up to the frame of the Honda and try starting it, you should see spark. If you do, you likely have a fuel issue. If you do not, you likely have an electrical issue. At the same time as you are turning the engine with the spark plug out, give a smell and see if you are getting a gas smell out of the spark plug hole. If you smell gas, that means your fuel line is not clogged.
If you do have spark and you smell fuel, then the fuel mixture could be off. At this point you need to do a deeper dive into the carburetor and adjust according to the manual or do a carburetor rebuild. That is not the problem with my Honda today, so we will save carburetor issues for another day. The issue with my Honda is no spark. There are several things we can check out, but everything is under the gas tank, so we will need to remove that. It is removed by simply unscrewing one bold underneath the seat and removing the fuel line.
Make sure the tank fuel switch is set to the off position. I removed my tank and immediately saw the likely cause of my issues. There was a great big wad of pink insulation in my wiring harness. A mouse had decided to make a nest under my gas tank which is on top of my coil and wiring harness.
I removed the nest and inspected the wiring harness.
He did chew through the outer insulation of the wiring harness, but did not chew through any wires. That is good, but I still have some kind of electrical issue. There is mouse urine on the coil, which could be causing the spark to short out before the spark plug. But I need to be sure.
Honda TRX300 Fourtrax Ignition Coil 1988-2000
So I removed the coil and checked the system out with a multimeter. The coil has two wires going into the back side of it. A green wire which is ground and a black wire which gets 12 volts applied at a certain point as the engine turns. The multimeter I own came from Harbor Freight Tools.
I had a coupon that let me get the multimeter for free if I bought one other item. The first thing I did was to check that I had a good connection to ground on the green wire. Make sure the coil is connected up to the frame with the wire on the screw.How To Test Motorcycle, ATV & UTV Ignition Coils
That is your connection to ground. Then remove the green wire from the back of the coil. You will check that wire for connectivity to ground. Set your voltmeter to Ohms and put one lead on the green wire you removed from the coil and touch the other lead to the frame of the Honda.
You should see a direct short. Depending on which multimeter you have, you will either see a needle move or you will see the meter reading go down near zero. If you have a good reading here, connect the green wire back up. The next step is to remove the black wire from the coil.